Ireland: Dingle, Day 3

Saturday, Nov 23, 2002

Saturday was Shabbat, so we stayed in our B&B up until midday, then went out on a walk all the way to Ventry, some two miles away. The day looked gorgeous, so we thought it would be OK… About halfway to Ventry we could see the storm clouds rolling in from the sea. We managed to get to Ventry, and decided to hike back before the rain really started, only to have the rain really start once we had past the last place we could have taken shelter in. The rain was falling sideways, the wind driving it like thousands of tiny wet daggers. On the plus side, the left side of our bodies was pretty much dry, compared to the utter soaking on the right side. By the time we got back to the B&B, our host, Maurice, asked us incredulously, “What happened!” We told him the day had looked great so we had decided to walk to Ventry; he merely looked at us with a smile that said “silly tourists”. He did dry our clothes and light up a peat fire. We will forever associate the smell of peat with warmth.

Yvette with a pint of Bullmer’s cider at An Conair Pub. It was the first pub of five that night.
Nov. 23, 2002

Given this was our last night in Dingle, we decided to go for the Pub Crawl. Pubs are everywhere in Dingle, including some that do double-duty as stores during the day and pubs at night. Our crawl started at An Conair Pub (nice place, but the music would be in two hours), and from there we hit the Small Bridge Bar (packed, very atmospheric), Lord Bakers for a little food, then Dick Mack’s (one of those double-duty, a leather shop by day and pub by night), O’Flaherty’s (where they had great music, and the man on the banjo turned out to be the owner), and Murphy’s (with great rebel songs!).